Grade 10 woodwork – Surface preparation Quiz

1. What is the first thing you should do before starting surface preparation on a wooden classroom bench?

Soak the bench with water to raise the grain
Apply varnish immediately to protect the surface
Inspect the wood for defects like cracks, knots and loose joints
Start sanding with very fine sandpaper
Explanation:

Inspection identifies defects that need repair or removal before sanding or finishing, ensuring a good final result and safe use.

2. When sanding a wooden school desk by hand, which direction gives the smoothest finish?

In small circular motions regardless of the grain
Along the direction of the wood grain
Across the grain at right angles
From the centre outwards
Explanation:

Sanding along the grain avoids scratching across fibres and prevents visible marks, giving a smoother final surface.

3. Which tool is best for removing old varnish or paint from a small timber sample before refinishing?

Hand scraper
Metal file
Claw hammer
Wood chisel used like a knife
Explanation:

A hand scraper removes old finish without deep gouging and allows controlled removal on small areas before sanding and re-finishing.

4. Why should you progress from coarse to fine sandpaper grades when preparing a timber surface?

To make the wood darker
Because fine paper removes material faster than coarse paper
To remove deep defects first and then refine the surface for a smooth finish
To increase moisture in the wood
Explanation:

Coarse grades remove high spots and defects; finer grades smooth scratches left by coarser paper, producing a uniform surface for finishing.

5. What problem can occur if you sand across the grain on softwoods like pine?

Increased strength of the joint
Tear-out and rough raised fibres
Wood becomes waterproof
Faster drying of the wood
Explanation:

Sanding across the grain on softwoods can lift and tear fibres, causing rough patches that spoil appearance and require extra work to fix.

6. Which is the correct way to prepare the end grain before applying stain?

Apply thick paint to the end grain immediately
Leave the end grain untreated because it does not accept stain
Seal the end grain first with a sanding sealer or thinned finish to reduce blotching
Sand end grain less than face grain and apply more stain
Explanation:

End grain soaks up finish more than face grain; sealing it first prevents blotchy, uneven staining and improves final appearance.

7. What is the purpose of using a tack cloth or clean rag after sanding?

To soak the wood with oil before finishing
To polish the wood to a high gloss
To stretch the wood surface
To remove dust and particles so the finish bonds properly
Explanation:

Dust left on the surface interferes with adhesion and causes imperfect finishes; a tack cloth or damp rag removes dust before finishing.

8. Which safety equipment is most important when sanding timber in a school workshop?

Wellington boots only
Dust mask or respirator
Rubber gloves only
Sunglasses
Explanation:

Sanding produces fine dust that can harm the lungs; a dust mask or respirator protects respiratory health during surface preparation.

9. What does 'raising the grain' mean and how is it corrected during preparation?

Grain disappears and needs to be drawn with pencil
Grain becomes darker and is fixed by applying oil immediately
The wood splits along the grain and must be glued
Grain fibres swell when wetted and are removed by light sanding after drying
Explanation:

Wetting raises fibres making the surface rough; once dry, a light sanding smooths the raised grain before finishing.

10. Which filler is most suitable for filling small dents and screw holes in interior furniture before finishing?

Concrete mortar
Cooking oil
Water-based wood filler that can be sanded and stained
Pure wax candle
Explanation:

Water-based wood filler is designed for timber: it fills defects, sands smoothly and accepts stain or finish for a uniform look.

11. Why should you sand between coats of varnish or paint?

To increase the thickness of the wood
To remove the previous coat completely
To remove dust nibs and provide a key for the next coat to adhere
To make the colour change drastically
Explanation:

Light sanding between coats smooths imperfections and creates a slightly rough surface that helps the next coat bond and gives a better finish.

12. What grit of sandpaper is appropriate for initial sanding of rough-sawn timber?

400-600 grit ultra-fine paper
No sandpaper at all
1000 grit polishing paper
60-80 grit coarse paper
Explanation:

Rough-sawn timber needs coarse paper (60-80) to remove major high spots and quickly shape the surface before finer sanding.

13. How should electric sanders be used to avoid creating dips or gouges in the wood?

Hold the sander in one place until the area is flat
Keep the sander moving and do not apply excessive pressure on one spot
Only use the sander at the edges of the work
Run the sander backwards over the area
Explanation:

Leaving an electric sander in one place or pressing hard removes too much material and makes uneven dips; steady movement prevents gouging.

14. What is 'feathering' a repair in surface preparation?

Using feathers to polish varnish
Cutting a feather pattern into the wood
Applying feather dust to the surface
Sanding the edges of a filled area so it blends smoothly with surrounding wood
Explanation:

Feathering smooths the transition between filled and original surface so repairs are not visible after finishing.

15. Before applying oil finish to a desk made of hardwood, which preparation step improves finish absorption?

Light sanding with fine paper to open the pores and remove dust
Sealing with wax first
Soaking the wood in water for several hours
Applying glue to the surface
Explanation:

Fine sanding cleans and slightly opens pores improving oil penetration and producing a more even and durable finish.

16. Which method is best for removing grease or wax contamination from a wood surface before finishing?

Wiping with a clean cloth dampened with a suitable solvent like turpentine
Applying thicker paint over the contamination
Sanding with very coarse paper without cleaning
Rinsing with plain water only
Explanation:

Grease and wax repel finishes; a suitable solvent removes contaminants so finishes can adhere properly.

17. What is the purpose of chamfering or rounding sharp edges before finishing school furniture?

To make the wood heavier
To hide joint defects permanently
To reduce the risk of splinters and improve durability and appearance
To increase the surface area for staining only at corners
Explanation:

Rounding edges prevents sharp corners that cause splinters, wear easily, and helps coatings resist chipping for longer life.

18. Which sign indicates that a timber surface still has finish dust before applying a new coat?

A wet area that absorbs no finish
A dry, powdery residue that smears when touched
A perfectly smooth and clean surface with no residue
A shiny gloss that reflects light evenly
Explanation:

Powdery smearable dust shows sanding dust or old finish particles remain; these must be removed for good adhesion of the next coat.

19. When preparing plywood for painting in a Kenyan school workshop, why should you pay attention to edges and joints?

Plywood edges should be soaked to expand the layers
Edges should always be left rough to show the plywood layers
Joints will never take paint and should remain unpainted
They can absorb paint differently and may need sealing or filling to prevent uneven finish
Explanation:

Edges and joints are more porous and can soak up paint causing visible differences; sealing or filling ensures a uniform appearance.

20. What is the correct action if you notice a raised knot on a school desk during surface preparation?

Ignore it and continue because knots never affect the finish
Burn the knot away with a hot tool
Paint over it without any preparation
Remove or sand the high portion, and if necessary plug with a suitable knot filler before finishing
Explanation:

Raised knots can cause uneven finish and can come loose; sanding and using a knot sealer or filler stabilises them for a reliable finish.

21. Which of the following best describes a 'binder' in a wood finish product used after surface preparation?

A tool used to mix sandpaper grits
A type of brush made from plant fibres
The component that forms the film and binds pigments to the wood
A machine used to press plywood
Explanation:

Binders (resins) are the film-forming part of finishes like varnish or paint that hold pigments and adhere to the wood surface.

22. Why should you avoid using very oily rags for cleaning timber surfaces before finishing?

Oil helps paint to dry faster so it is recommended
Oily rags make the wood more attractive
Leftover oil will prevent the finish from adhering and can cause stain or blistering
Oily rags will strengthen the wood fibres
Explanation:

Oils repel finish products and can lead to poor adhesion, blotching or defects; surfaces must be free from oils before finishing.

23. What is the effect of not allowing filler or glue to dry fully before sanding during surface preparation?

It makes the filler stronger and easier to sand
It causes clogging of sandpaper and uneven, gummy surfaces
It prevents the need for sanding at all
It colours the wood permanently
Explanation:

Sanding uncured filler or glue gums the paper and leaves an uneven surface; full drying ensures clean sanding and good finish.

24. Which finish is most likely to highlight flaws if surface preparation is poor?

Beeswax that soaks in completely
High-gloss varnish
Invisible oil finish
Matte water-based stain
Explanation:

High-gloss finishes reflect light and make scratches, bumps and dust more visible, so they require very careful preparation.

25. What is the correct disposal method for used solvent-soaked rags in a school workshop to prevent fire risk?

Flush them down the sink with water
Store them in a metal container with a tight lid and follow local waste rules
Burn them in a small pile near the workshop
Leave them on the bench to dry in the open
Explanation:

Solvent-soaked rags can spontaneously combust; storing them safely in a sealed metal container reduces fire risk and allows proper disposal.

26. What is the main purpose of surface preparation before applying a finish to a wooden product?

To increase the thickness of the wood
To make the wood heavier so the finish sticks
To remove surface defects and create a smooth, clean surface for the finish
To change the colour of the wood permanently
Explanation:

Surface preparation removes roughness, glue, dirt and other defects so stains or paints adhere evenly and the final appearance is smooth and durable.

27. When sanding a plank by hand, which sanding motion gives the smoothest result and reduces scratch marks?

Sanding in random heavy circles
Sanding across the grain in short strokes
Sanding with the grain in long even strokes
Sanding only along the end grain
Explanation:

Sanding with the grain avoids noticeable cross-grain scratches and produces an even surface suitable for finishing.

28. Which sequence of sandpaper grit is best for preparing a hardwood surface before finishing?

Use only 40 grit for everything
Start 400 → finish with 60
Start 120 → 240 → 320 → 400 (progressively finer)
Start 400 → 320 → 240 → 120
Explanation:

Progressively finer grits remove earlier scratches and smooth the wood step by step; starting too fine leaves existing rough cuts.

29. Why should raised grain be removed or controlled before applying water-based finishes?

Because raised grain makes the wood lighter
Because raised grain creates a fuzzy surface that will lift when wet, causing a rough finish
Because raised grain repels the finish and causes it to evaporate
Because raised grain prevents nails from holding
Explanation:

Water raises the wood fibres; if they are not smoothed (often by dampening and re-sanding), the finish will look rough as fibres stand up.

30. What should you do to prepare end grain before finishing to avoid dark or blotchy stains?

Seal end grain first with a thinned coat or special sealer
Apply finish immediately without sanding
Soak the end grain in water for several days
Only sand the face and ignore the end grain
Explanation:

End grain soaks up finish quickly and unevenly; sealing it first ensures more consistent absorption and uniform colour.

31. Which is the correct use of wood filler when preparing a surface for finishing?

Fill holes and deep gouges, then sand smooth before finishing
Mix filler into the finish to make it thicker
Only use filler on live edges
Apply filler over the entire surface to change the wood type
Explanation:

Filler is used to repair defects like holes and cracks so the surface becomes even and ready for a uniform finish.

32. Which tool is best for producing a flat, smooth surface quickly on a rough board before sanding?

Hand saw
Plane (hand plane)
Chisel used flat on the surface
Screwdriver
Explanation:

A hand plane removes thin layers of wood across the face to produce a flat, smooth surface faster than sanding alone.

33. Why is it important to remove sanding dust before applying paint or varnish?

Dust can create bumps and poor adhesion, so it must be removed
Dust helps the finish dry faster, so it should be left
Dust changes the colour of wood permanently
Dust causes the finish to adhere better, so leave it
Explanation:

Dust particles trapped under the finish produce roughness and weak adhesion; cleaning ensures a smooth, durable coat.

34. Which cleaning method is best after final sanding and before finishing?

Wipe with a wet brush and leave puddles
Use a tack cloth or a damp, lint-free cloth to remove fine dust
Blow with compressed air only and skip wiping
Rub with oil immediately
Explanation:

A tack cloth or slightly damp lint-free cloth removes fine dust without leaving residues, preparing the surface for even finishing.

35. When preparing wood for staining, why is it important to sand evenly and in the right direction?

Because uneven sanding will show as blotches or streaks when stained
Because stain only penetrates when there are deep scratches
Because sanding direction changes the wood species
Because sanding direction keeps the wood wet
Explanation:

Stain highlights surface differences; uneven sanding produces uneven absorption and visible blotches.

36. What is the purpose of a sanding sealer used before finishing?

To make the wood grow thicker
To change the grain pattern
To remove the need for sanding completely
To fill pores and create a uniform base that sands smooth before final coats
Explanation:

Sanding sealer partially fills pores, allowing easier final sanding and creating a consistent surface for topcoats to adhere to.

37. Which grit of sandpaper is most appropriate for smoothing a previously planed surface before final sanding?

0 grit
24 grit
20 grit
80–120 grit
Explanation:

80–120 grit removes minor tool marks from planing without digging deep scratches and is a suitable starting point before finer sanding.

38. Why should sanding be done progressively from coarse to fine rather than starting fine?

Starting fine is faster and better
Coarse paper is only for metal, not wood
Coarse removes big defects; finer paper removes scratches left by coarse paper
Fine paper will dissolve in contact with wood
Explanation:

Progressing from coarse to fine ensures defects are removed and earlier scratches are eliminated, producing a smooth final surface.

39. What safety step should you always take when sanding and preparing wood surfaces?

Use a dust mask or respirator and eye protection
Only sand with bare hands to feel the surface
Work without ventilation so dust stays on the workbench
Swallow glue to test smell
Explanation:

Sanding produces fine dust that can harm lungs and eyes; a dust mask and eye protection keep you safe.

40. If a wooden surface shows tear-out while planing, what is the best corrective action during surface preparation?

Plane across the grain strongly to remove it
Use a plane with a sharper blade and plane with the grain or reduce blade depth
Sand the tear-out away using very coarse paper only
Ignore it and apply finish
Explanation:

Tear-out is caused by dull blades or aggressive cuts; sharpening the blade and cutting with the grain or taking shallower cuts prevents tear-out.

41. Which product is best to remove grease or oil stains from a wooden workpiece before finishing?

Wax polish
Solvent or degreaser recommended for wood (e.g., mineral spirits)
Water alone always removes grease
Mixing glue into the stain
Explanation:

Grease and oil must be dissolved or lifted with an appropriate solvent; mineral spirits remove oily contaminants without damaging wood when used correctly.

42. When preparing a previously painted surface for repainting, which step is essential?

Soaking the paint with oil to soften it
Applying a new coat directly without preparation
Removing loose paint and sanding to create a keyed surface for adhesion
Only cleaning with water and skipping sanding
Explanation:

New paint must adhere to a sound, keyed surface; removing loose paint and light sanding ensures good bonding of the new coat.

43. Which is the correct order when preparing for varnishing a tabletop?

Apply varnish, sand, then clean dust
Only apply oil without sanding or cleaning
Plane or sand to flatness, remove dust, apply sealer (if needed), then apply varnish
Soak tabletop in water overnight then varnish
Explanation:

A flattened, dust-free surface with appropriate sealing provides the best base for varnish to form a smooth, durable finish.

44. Why is it recommended to sand joints and glued areas lightly after glue has cured?

To make the joint visible for decoration
Because sanding weakens the glue bond
To remove excess glue and make the joint flush with surrounding wood
To add colour to the glue line
Explanation:

Excess dried glue should be removed and the joint smoothed so it blends with the surface before finishing.

45. Which type of abrasive is best for final smoothing before applying a stain on softwood like pine?

Brick
Fine sandpaper (180–240 grit)
Carpet
Very coarse metal file
Explanation:

Fine sandpaper leaves a smooth surface suitable for even staining on softwoods, removing minor defects without deep scratches.

46. What problem occurs if you sand stained wood too much before applying a finish?

The finish will not dry at all
The wood will become waterproof automatically
The stain may be removed or become uneven, affecting final appearance
The wood will turn into metal
Explanation:

Excessive sanding can remove or thin the stain, causing uneven colour and spotty areas under the final finish.

47. Which practice helps avoid visible lap lines when applying stain or finish to a flat panel?

Work wet edge to wet edge, maintaining a wet boundary so coats blend smoothly
Use different finishes for adjacent areas
Apply finish in small isolated spots and let each dry fully before moving on
Apply finish only at night
Explanation:

Working wet edge to wet edge prevents overlap marks by keeping a continuous workable area where the finish can level and blend.

48. When should you use a scraper instead of sandpaper during surface preparation?

To add deep scratches to the surface intentionally
To make the edges rounded only
To remove old finish and fine defects without clogging or loading as quickly as sandpaper might
When you want to polish metal
Explanation:

A cabinet scraper can remove finish and small defects smoothly, especially on figured wood where sandpaper may clog or cause tear-out.

49. What is the main reason to let wood acclimatize in the workshop before surface preparation and finishing?

Because finishes only work in cold wood
To allow moisture content to stabilise so shrinkage or swelling happens before finishing
So the wood can change species to match the workshop
So wood becomes softer for easier sanding
Explanation:

Wood that is not acclimatised may move after finishing, causing cracks or finish failure; stabilising moisture content first prevents this.

50. Why should you avoid touching a freshly sanded surface with bare hands before finishing?

Because skin will bond permanently to the wood
Because touch oils and sweat can contaminate the surface and affect finish adhesion and appearance
Because touching warms the wood too much
Because fingerprints make the wood stronger
Explanation:

Oils and salts from skin can cause blotchy finishes or adhesion problems; handle with clean gloves or avoid touching the sanded areas.

51. What is the correct action if you find small cracks (checking) on a surface during preparation?

Ignore them since finishes will hide all cracks
Fill them with appropriate wood filler or epoxy, then sand smooth before finishing
Fill with water to make them disappear
Cover them with tape and paint over it immediately
Explanation:

Small cracks should be filled with a compatible filler, allowed to cure, and sanded so the finish will be even and the defect won't show.