Pattern making Notes, Quizzes & Revision

What is Pattern Making?

Pattern making is the process of creating paper or card templates (patterns) that represent parts of a garment or textile item. These templates guide cutting and sewing so that pieces fit together correctly. In Kenya, pattern making is used for school uniforms, church/occasion wear, fashion items from local fabrics such as kitenge, khanga and cotton, and simple household items like pillow covers.

Why it matters (Purpose)

• Ensures correct fit and consistent sizing.
• Saves fabric and time when cutting multiple garments.
• Enables design adjustments (style changes, ease, length).
• Useful for small tailoring businesses and home sewing in Kenya.

Common Materials and Tools

• Pattern paper or brown wrapping paper (old newspapers or plain paper can work).
• Rulers (long rule 60–100 cm), measuring tape (cm and inches), French curve or flexible curve.
• Pencil, eraser, tailor’s chalk, pins, scissors (paper scissors and fabric scissors).
• Marker for labelling, weights (stones or tins) to hold paper on fabric.

Basic Terms (Short Glossary)

Grainline

Direction of fabric threads; patterns must align with grainline for correct drape.

Seam allowance

Extra fabric added to the edge for sewing (commonly 1–1.5 cm or 3/8–5/8 in).

Ease

Extra measurement added so the garment is comfortable to wear.

Notches

Small marks used to match pieces during sewing.

Simple Steps to Make a Basic Bodice Pattern

1. Take measurements: bust, waist, shoulder width, back length, and desired garment length. (Use cm; many Kenyan tailors also know inches.)
2. Draw a vertical center line on pattern paper. Mark neck, shoulder, bust line, waist line using these measurements.
3. Shape neck and shoulder using standard measurements or a block. Use a French curve to draw smooth lines.
4. Mark side seam and armhole. Add ease (e.g., 2–4 cm at bust depending on style).
5. Transfer darts or shaping (bust darts) if needed, and add seam allowance (1–1.5 cm) around edges.
6. Label: front/back, grainline, fold/centre, notches, size and seam allowances.

Quick Visual: Pattern Piece Sketches

Local Examples & Practical Uses in Kenya

• Sewing school shirts and skirts for primary/secondary students (use accurate chest/waist measurements for uniform fit).
• Making dresses from kitenge for church events — add fullness and decorative seams for style.
• Creating small businesses: make repeated patterns to produce batches quickly and keep quality consistent.

Measurements: Practical Tips

• Record measurements in centimetres (cm) and note the date. If working with tailors who use inches, convert: 1 in = 2.54 cm.
• Always check ease: a fitted shirt needs less ease than a loose dress. Example: fitted bodice might use 2 cm ease at bust; loose dress may use 5–10 cm.
• Make a mock-up (muslin toile) from cheap fabric to test fit before cutting expensive kitenge.

Common Mistakes & How to Avoid Them

• Forgetting seam allowances — always draw them on the pattern.
• Not labelling grainline or orientation — leads to poor drape or mismatched prints.
• Using the wrong measurement points (e.g., measuring around clothing instead of body) — measure on the body.

Simple Classroom/Practice Tasks (age_replace)

1. Take measurements from a partner and draft a basic front bodice on paper using those numbers.
2. Create a full-size pattern piece for a simple skirt panel: measure waist, hip, length and add seam allowance.
3. Make a muslin toile of any pattern piece to check fit. Note changes on the pattern paper for next time.

Assessment Questions

• Define seam allowance and explain why it is important.
• List three items you must label on a pattern piece before cutting fabric.
• Explain the difference between grainline and notches and how each is used.

Practical Tips for Kenyan Context

• Use local low-cost papers (old brown sacks, newspapers under pattern paper) for practice drafts.
• Talk to a local tailor — many have practical measurements and shortcuts passed down in workshops in towns like Nairobi, Mombasa, Kisumu.
• When using printed kitenge, align the fabric’s motif across pattern pieces (pay attention to pattern repeat and grain).